The Ambrym Reunion That Almost Wasn't

Life in Vanuatu is rarely consistent. Sometimes it drives you. Other times, it works ideally. Late last month, as I prepared for my trip to the neighboring island of Ambrym to visit Allegra, another volunteer, with my friend Mi Lee, I learned that Mi Lee's plans for walking to the other side of the island to join us had been usurped by her host family's fears of black magic, as she had planned to walk with her host brother. I also learned that there would be no trucks to the airport on the day of my flight since it was a public holiday. People warned me several times about black magic, but only warned me about the problems with the trucks after it was too late to make a contingency plan. I ended up having to charter a truck part of the way to the airport and pay a substantially higher fee. I also got a text from Mi Lee that she'd gotten a flight to the other side of the island to meet us at the last minute and planned to surprise Allegra. We both met on the same flight, which experienced fog and never landed at our destination. Instead, we landed in Port Vila, the economic and political capital. Of course, since it was the airline's mishap, the airline had to cover our accommodations. Two French tourists and one boy student were also meant to land in Ambrym and were held up. I used the time to purchase supplies, conduct research, and meet other volunteers. Mi Lee learned that a research paper she co-authered on fish societies and the influence of DNA is about to be published in a scientific journal. We ended up going to Ambrym two days later on a special plane that had been arranged just for us. It was also the smallest plane I have ever seen. I bought a baguette, Emmantelle cheese, and red wine to take back to Allegra's house, and we all celebrated together.

Music Night

Last month, the school in our village held a music night in which the kids of various classes sang, danced, and performed small children's plays. I was impressed by the costumes. I made a small cat mask for the Year 2's play about a cat. The kids also made arts and crafts out of coconut leaves for me, and I was equally impressed by their dexterity.

Voyage to Vao

A few weeks ago I visited a nearby island called Vao. I went for a day trip because I had heard it was resplendent. The landscapes, ocean views, Catholic churches, and tribal sculptures certainly were. I was sadly not allowed to take photographs. I was shown the site of the most recent case of cannibalism in Vanuatu, as well as a church where genital mutilation is still practiced on adolescent boys as a rite of passage during Christmas time. I didn't feel comfortable telling the people there I opposed this practice. However, I did enjoy the intricate tribal sculptures with sharks, dolphins, snakes, and Christ images.

Zen, Gender, and HIV Education

Last May, I attended a week-long conference on gender issues and sexual health on the island of Espiritu Santo. Many friends from the Peace Corps also attended, and most of us brought participants from our respective villages. The Ni-Vanuatu counterparts were quite excited to visit another island, as this is a rare opportunity for most of them. As an optional activity, I volunteered to lead Zen meditation every morning. The program entailed sitting meditation, walking meditation, and readings from the Venerable Thich Nhat Hanh. I was uncertain how others would react to it, due to the religious fervor and right-wing Christian propaganda that plague the country. However it actually was quite successful, growing in number each day. One day, about thirty people participated. It was a stellar example of the Buddhist teaching that the most profound, valuable gift one can offer is one's authentic presence, to be there in body and spirit. However there were also some revelations that were ultimately disappointing. On an information session on HIV transmission, many Ni-Vanuatus revealed that they believed local and herbal remedies could cure HIV. Considering they came from the more educated echelons of the society, this was quite disturbing. Another disturbing revelation was that the women participants could not name any female leaders in their communities. Knowing how vital female empowerment is for human development, this revealed one of the most significant obstacles to development. We worked with the participants to show them the reasons why these myths need to be refuted and gender equality established. This is the mission of the Peace Corps.

Scratching Coconuts

The elders in my host family have given me a unique new skill: Making coconut milk from scratch. The process entails taking brown coconuts and using a sharp device to scratch the coconut meat into small strips. Water is added and then the mixture is squeezed over a strainer.

Friday the 13th

Last Friday I took the early truck ride into Lakatoro in order to run my usual errands of purchasing groceries, checking email, and withdrawing cash from the bank. I also had the opportunity the talk to the Cultural Center, which displayed an impressive collection of masks, statues, and photographs. It was Friday the 13th. I told the curator about my intention of launching a mural project in my village that conserves and celebrates the indigenous sand-drawings which are bequeathed through vernacular oral tradition. They were very excited about the project and even showed me a book of various sand-drawings which including instructions on how to cast them. But as the day went on, I learned that my truck had left without me and was forced to find another way home. Vanuatu transportation is often dictated by conjecture and chaos. After talking to various people, I finally found one man who said he was going to my village. He told me he had found a truck that would be leaving shortly. When the truck finally arrived, I boarded it, believing it would take me home. But after a few minutes of driving, the driver drove back to Lakatoro and we waiting for hours for another truck to transport the rest of our group that wanted to be taken to the Northwest. The plan was to divide us between two different trucks since our group was too large. But the other truck did not come for several hours. While awaiting the truck, I met a lovely woman from a village that neighbors mine asked me to come to her village and paint a mural there as well. I told her I would alter the grant application to include this plan. Finally the truck arrived and took me back to my village. It was quite crowded and one person stepped on a tea device I had and shattered it. (Luckily, another Peace Corps Volunteer is sending me another one from Port Vila.) I was forced to sit between two loud, inebriated men who would not stop yelling in my ears. We stopped a few times so that people on the other truck could trade cigarettes. People were also reaching all over the truck to retrieve things, without caring that they were touching each other in intimate places. I thought, “It's just like a New York subway. All that's missing is the Lubavitchers, the Mariachi band, and the breakdancers.” We made detours and for awhile I was worried since I didn't recognize the scenery. We passed a large stereo and a small boy dancing. I thought, “There's the breakdancer.” We didn't get back to my village until 11:00 at night. I came back feeling indignant and judgmental. I couldn't understand why the truck would leave without me and several other passengers. I had heard that this was a common problem in my village of drivers abandoning their passengers. I had not paid the driver for the initial ride, thinking that paying him for both trips when I returned was a better strategy. I never believed in the superstition of Friday the 13th before. I now believe.

Building a Fence With Village Kids

Last week, I gathered five village teenagers to assemble a garden fence. The fence is a necessity for my garden in order to obstruct chickens from transgressing in and eating the seeds. They built it out of bamboo trunks and coconut leaves. I was quite impressed by their expertise and dexterity. I helped by gathering fallen coconut leaves, but it was the youth who did the majority of the work. The fence is now finished. Makina, my host sister, and I have now planted and are cultivating sandalwood, green peppers, two tomato varieties, coriander, bok choy, orange trees, and my favorite, eggplant. The bok choy is already sprouting. Two pumpkin plants and three pineapple trees are already growing.